We recently had five days off for a holiday: Nawryz. I took a short trip to Portugal to take care of some business and get some sun. It was lovely. The only problem, it took 30 hours to get there and 30 hours to get back. There is no easy way to get in and out of Kazakhstan.
Any trip from Taraz involves first getting to Almaty. There is almost 1 flight a day from Taraz to Almaty. Almost, but not quite. So often, we have to take the train. I managed to get the fast train. That only takes 6.5 hours. It is a night train that leaves Taraz at about 11:30pm. Everyone has a bunk. You can buy a ticket for the "cattle car" that is just a train car lined with bunks, or you can buy a ticket in a koupe -- a compartment with 4 bunks.
I bought the koupe -- and ended up sharing with two men. It was a bit uncomfortable. But the porter makes up your bunks and everyone goes to sleep. The younger of the two in my compartment was very kind. He didn't speak any English, but he was interested in what I was doing in Kazakhstan and whether I lived in Taraz or Almaty. Although I still don't speak Russian, I have enough nouns to communicate in single words and get my point across. He managed to take care of me by always letting me know what was going on -- including when it was time to get our things together because we were almost there.
Once in Almaty, I took a taxi to the Almaty International Airport (with all of its 5 gates) and waited for about 5 hours for my flight.
The way back was a little more difficult. Sleep deprivation can make me a little crazy. I was having a panic attack about returning. I think it was just the idea of how long it would take and how uncomfortable the journey is. I decided to get a hotel room in Almaty rather than waiting at the airport or train station for 6 hours. It was the best decision I could have made; life looks better after some sleep and a shower.
The people of Kazakhstan continue to amaze me. I got to the train station and was immediately surrounded by men asking "taxi? taxi?" I said "Nyet, taxi. Train." Two of the taxi drivers decided to take care of me. Again, with no English. They asked me which train. I pointed to it on the board. They took me to the right train, the right car (vagon), and handed me off the the porter.
This time I shared my koupe with one man returning back to work in Atrau from his family celebration of Nawryz in Almaty. He told me all about the places we passed on our journey, showed me pictures of his family, told me about his job, and shared his leftovers from the holiday meal. No, he didn't speak any English.
Any trip from Taraz involves first getting to Almaty. There is almost 1 flight a day from Taraz to Almaty. Almost, but not quite. So often, we have to take the train. I managed to get the fast train. That only takes 6.5 hours. It is a night train that leaves Taraz at about 11:30pm. Everyone has a bunk. You can buy a ticket for the "cattle car" that is just a train car lined with bunks, or you can buy a ticket in a koupe -- a compartment with 4 bunks.
I bought the koupe -- and ended up sharing with two men. It was a bit uncomfortable. But the porter makes up your bunks and everyone goes to sleep. The younger of the two in my compartment was very kind. He didn't speak any English, but he was interested in what I was doing in Kazakhstan and whether I lived in Taraz or Almaty. Although I still don't speak Russian, I have enough nouns to communicate in single words and get my point across. He managed to take care of me by always letting me know what was going on -- including when it was time to get our things together because we were almost there.
Once in Almaty, I took a taxi to the Almaty International Airport (with all of its 5 gates) and waited for about 5 hours for my flight.
Leaving winter in Taraz -- all black and white
Arriving in summer in Portugal
It was worth the 30 hours!The way back was a little more difficult. Sleep deprivation can make me a little crazy. I was having a panic attack about returning. I think it was just the idea of how long it would take and how uncomfortable the journey is. I decided to get a hotel room in Almaty rather than waiting at the airport or train station for 6 hours. It was the best decision I could have made; life looks better after some sleep and a shower.
The people of Kazakhstan continue to amaze me. I got to the train station and was immediately surrounded by men asking "taxi? taxi?" I said "Nyet, taxi. Train." Two of the taxi drivers decided to take care of me. Again, with no English. They asked me which train. I pointed to it on the board. They took me to the right train, the right car (vagon), and handed me off the the porter.
Almaty #2 Train Station
A man selling apples by the tracks at the station
This time I shared my koupe with one man returning back to work in Atrau from his family celebration of Nawryz in Almaty. He told me all about the places we passed on our journey, showed me pictures of his family, told me about his job, and shared his leftovers from the holiday meal. No, he didn't speak any English.
My traveling companion
These people bring carts of food out by the tracks in hopes
of making a quick sale when the train stops
I arrived safe and sound back in Taraz the night before I had to return to work. My friend and taxi driver, Vadim, greeted me with a rose and drove me home. It was so nice to be back in my apartment.
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