November 08, 2014

Lost in Translation



'Nuff said.

Shopping

Sorry for the long breaks between posts.  Things have been busy, and I have been exhausted.  But, I've been anxious to talk about shopping in Taraz.

While there are a few stores I would call typical Western style, most shopping is done in the large markets -- or bizarres.  There are three that we go to, one bigger than the next.

The smallest and most manageable is named Sultan.  It is a combination indoor/outdoor.  Earlier, I posted a picture of their meat market.  At Sultan, you can buy anything from wall paper to underwear, plumbing supplies to shoes, appliances to spices.  I like this market the best because it is the most manageable.  It is one "stall" after another, grouped by what they sell.  So, the shoes are next to the shoes -- and they compete against each other for the sale.

One of the shoe aisles

The back of my friend Charlene.  She's looking for boots.

The two pictures above were taken inside a big covered area.  Kind of like a huge airplane hanger.  On the outside, there are some open stalls, but also some individual shops.  Those are the most expensive.  In one that sells appliances, I bought an oven.  The guy told me it was 10,000 tenge.  We communicated that we would be back for it after we finished our other shopping because I couldn't carry it around.  When we went back, the price had dropped to 8,000 (about $35).  It is often to your advantage to walk away.

My new oven. Made in Turkey.

About a month ago we went to a very large market: Atakent.  It would take a couple of days to go through it all.  Again, it is a combination of inside and outside.  Again, like giant airplane hangers with individual booths selling anything and everything -- including formalwear.  I found a winter coat I liked but wanted to look around more before I bought it.  Of course, it took me about a half hour to find the store again once I decided that was the one I wanted.  Most of the clothes and coats have price tags on them, but you never pay face value.  I always think about what I would pay for something of similar quality at home and judge from there how much I am willing to pay.  If they don't meet my price, I just don't buy.

But the mother of all bizarres is Awlbirket.  I can't even begin to say how big it is,  probably the size of a small town.  Acres and acres of produce and shops selling grains and beans by the 10 kg bags.  A whole area for power tools, woodchoppers, and generators.  Linens, curtains, furniture...everything.  Again, all the stalls are grouped by the products they sell.  Here are a few pictures so you can get the idea:

This is one of the bike shops.

This is a whole building devoted to spices, teas, and dried fruits and nuts.

Every item in this shop is 50 tenge (about 30 cents)

Miles and miles of clothing.

These places make TJ Maxx look like Neiman Marcus!  

All of these markets also have food vendors.  The smell of shashlik (shish-ka-bob) cooking over an open flame is heavy in the air.  There are also booths cooking samsas (flakey pastry filled with meat and/or vegetables) and fresh bread.  You can get a "fast-food" to eat as you walk around or be served at one of the cafes.

These markets are all part of the cultural experience.  Even though there are more and more shops in town that cater to the wealthier residents or those who want to have a more European experience, the markets are where you see the real Taraz.